A piece of jewellery can be small enough to fit in your hand and still hold a surprising amount of history. It might have been chosen for an occasion, worn every day for years, or kept carefully in a drawer. For collectors, its appeal often begins with the design and grows as the details come into focus.
This guide offers a starting point for exploring antique, vintage and contemporary jewellery. It looks at the clues that may help identify and date a piece, and at the practical things to check before buying it.
A brief history of jewellery
People have worn jewellery for thousands of years. Across different places and periods, it has expressed identity, status, belief and personal taste. Earrings, necklaces, bracelets and pins are enduring forms, but their materials and designs have changed with fashion and the techniques available to makers.
Some older pieces were made from precious metals and gemstones; others used glass, shell, enamel or less costly metals to striking effect. Nineteenth-century makers sometimes drew inspiration from jewellery found in archaeological excavations. Later designs followed new fashions or deliberately revived older ones. That is one reason a piece can look much older than it is.
Antique, vintage and contemporary: what is the difference?
Antique refers to older jewellery, commonly understood by collectors as pieces at least 100 years old. Vintage generally describes jewellery from an earlier period that has not yet reached that age. Contemporary describes jewellery made in more recent times.
These are useful descriptions, but they are not dates stamped onto an object. A recently made earring may borrow an Edwardian shape, while an older brooch may have a remarkably modern design. When the age is uncertain, it is better to describe what can be seen and leave the date open.
Where to begin when identifying jewellery
Start with the whole piece, then turn it over. Look at its construction, the way the components join, the finish on the reverse, and any marks or signatures. Examine the clasp, hook, pin or earring back. These details can help build a picture of how a piece was made and whether any parts appear to have been replaced.
A stamp such as 925 indicates a stated silver fineness; it does not, by itself, identify the maker or establish when the piece was made. Similarly, a dark stone cannot safely be called onyx, or a clear stone a diamond, on appearance alone. If a material has not been confirmed, a careful visual description is more helpful than a confident guess. Gemstone identification and the detection of treatments can require specialist examination.
How to approach dating
Dating jewellery usually means weighing several clues together. Design may suggest a period, but fashions return. Marks can provide useful evidence when they are clear and correctly identified. Construction and fittings may support a date, although clasps, hooks and backs can also be repaired or replaced during a piece’s lifetime.
An original box, receipt or known family history may add context. Without that evidence, a broad description such as “vintage” or “in an Art Deco style” may be more accurate than assigning a precise decade.
Earrings
Earrings range from close-fitting studs to long, moving drops. When assessing a pair, check that the two earrings match, that their fittings are secure and that any stones are present. Look at the reverse as carefully as the front, particularly around posts, hooks and joins.
Measurements matter. A photograph may make a small stud look substantial or a long drop look delicate. The width and overall drop give a clearer sense of how a pair will look when worn.
Necklaces and pendants
For a necklace, consider both the decorative part and the length of the chain or strand. Check the clasp, links and places where a pendant attaches. With beaded necklaces, look for wear to the stringing and note whether the beads have a uniform appearance or deliberate variation.
A pendant may have begun life as part of another piece. Such changes do not necessarily diminish its appeal, but they are worth describing when they can be seen.
Bracelets and bangles
Bracelets need to fit as well as look good. Check the internal measurement or length, then inspect hinges, catches, safety chains and links. A clasp that works smoothly and holds securely is particularly important for a piece intended to be worn.
Brooches and pins
Brooches can reveal a great deal when turned over. Their pin, hinge and catch deserve close inspection, along with any soldering or repairs. They also offer unusual freedom to the wearer: a brooch might sit on a jacket, hold a scarf or become the focal point of an otherwise simple outfit.
Rings and other pieces
Rings require an accurate size as well as a description of their setting and condition. Lockets, charms, dress clips, hair ornaments and matching sets bring their own questions. Does a locket open and close properly? Are all parts of a set present? Has an ornament been adapted for another use? These details often matter more to a buyer than a broad style label.
Condition and collecting with confidence
Age alone does not make a piece desirable, and signs of wear do not automatically make it undesirable. Light surface marks may be consistent with use. A loose stone, weakened fitting or damaged clasp is a different matter and should be considered before wearing or purchasing a piece.
The best place to start a collection is with jewellery you want to look at and, where appropriate, wear. Read the measurements, examine photographs of the front and back, and pay attention to what a description confirms as well as what it leaves uncertain. Over time, handling and comparing pieces makes the differences in design and workmanship easier to see.
At The McCorry Collection, we aim to photograph each piece individually and describe its visible details and condition clearly. Jewellery can carry memories we cannot know, but its materials, construction and signs of use still give us something real to appreciate.
Browse Vintage, Antique and Contemporary Jewellery
Research sources to look up
The Metropolitan Jewelry, for examples of early jewellery forms.